Home Sweet Home...

I arrived back in England yesterday afternoon following an emotional two days in Beijing as remained very sad at leaving that beautiful land of Mongolia.

Mongolia was everything I hoped and dreamed it to be, and more. A land of horses and eagles and vast open spaces. I met the most amazing people – was made to feel part of the family and truly felt like I was home whilst racing across the steppes on those tough, sturdy little horses. Their power and speed was something that just brought joy to my heart as we galloped along the fenceless lands. Not something I have ever experienced to that extent anywhere else in the world...

I was staying with a family run company called Stepperiders as a volunteer, which meant helping out with whatever I could, usually cooking and tidying and welcoming guests in and making lots of teas and coffees whilst briefing them on the nature of the horses here. My first week was spent on trek – 5 days on horseback, camping overnight surrounded by the most stunning views I have ever come across in a land with no boundaries. The horses live as a herd, out in the wilds all year long. By no means are they pet horses, but they allow themselves to be ridden during the summer months and then turn native as winter sets in, battling to survive the harsh elements. The next two weeks I lived at camp, in a round white ger that is where people live out in the countryside. Water had to be fetched from a well, so things like showers and flushing toilets were not something you would expect. The camp was in the middle of a valley, and the sunset from the top of the hill was breathtaking, spent many an evening sat watching it set, then walk back down only to be awestruck by the starry night sky after the darkness set in. Truly amazing.

A few celebration nights were held – which involved the passing around of a shot of vodka, being refilled each time no matter what people drank from it. Each time it was passed to you a song had to be sung – something that is an integral part of the Mongolian culture but for us westerners came as more of a challenge – particularly me whose idea of hell is singing in front of a group...but I did it! By the end of the three weeks I was singing whilst working, singing whilst riding, singing by candlelight with everyone else – especially when we had a guest turn up with a guitar!

Food was awesome – the meat often turning up ‘fresh’ from the back of a truck or car – still bleating... the amount of times I walked into the kitchen ger to see a goat or sheep head plonked on the floor. Oh, and then there was the night we tried a marnot that had been snared. A very pungent meat and not one I’d recommend! The airag – fermented mare’s milk is another delicacy, and quite possibly an acquired taste – not one I got used to. The yoghurt however was one that with lots of sugar was very tasty, but still incredibly sour! The meals were carb overload, with either rice or pasta..with a helping of potatoes too and then a small amount of vegetables and meat. It tended to be a variation of the same ingredients each day, but I was happy with that!

Having to return to reality was the hardest, and I cried my heart out as I hugged my beautiful friends goodbye before heading to the airport. I felt as though I was leaving a part of my heart there, and I know now that I have and I am already making plans to return.

I learnt so much those three short weeks, about the importance of friendship and how little you need to be happy and survive. I felt ashamed at how materialistic we are here in comparison, how little value is placed on family connections – the children there are brought up to not only respect and understand the true nature of life, but also to throw themselves in to help without a word of complaint. The boys are up on the horses from the moment they can walk, herding and helping. The girls are preparing meals and doing whatever needs to be done. And they welcome everyone in with open arms, have such a great sense of humour and are just wonderful. I cannot begin to describe how much I miss them. I had great fun teaching the kids some English - they were so keen to learn! The guides who went out on trek also wanted help, and it was fun discussing phrases and learning the lyrics to English songs.

It was strange to look down as my flight landed, seeing the orderly rows of houses and the lack of green space. Begin to cry again as I remembered the endlessness of the Mongolian landscape.

Walking through into arrivals the first thing I spot is my sister Rina holding a welcome home balloon and dad there with her. Felt heaps better after a few massive hugs!!!

So, home now. My Rufus welcome (our family dog) was all that I hoped it would be. My room was almost as I’d left it and it was great to be able to cook dinner and drink wine and have a hot bath and listen to the radio whilst catching up with everyone. Still delighting in the luxury that is hot running water...

Now, the only question left is – what on Earth am I supposed to do now?

• mongolia
• travel
• teaching